![]() ![]() The only problem with this is you must have an insert for each thread pitch which is way to expensive to use in the home shop. At work we use thread forming inserts on the lathe that actually cut the top of the thread behind the one being cut normally which makes a very smooth thread on the top. The biggest cause of rough threads is running the work to slow while cutting the thread and no lubricant. Also one single point tool is a lot cheaper than a bunch of dies. ![]() Most threads I've seen cut with dies that weren't perfectly sharp looked worse than any cut with a single point tool. With a little practice you can make a thread with a single point tool look as good or better than any done with a threading die. Forming taps require a slightly larger hole, as the material being threaded flows into, as well as away from, the threads of the tap. For a slightly tighter it, the smaller recommended H or D numbers may be used. Some of the big stuff gets real expensive real fast.Practice makes perfect Dog. They will also provide the longest tap life before the tap wears under size. Forming threads require a larger H-Limit because they. It should be noted that you need different H-Limits for cutting versus forming threads. For example, on a ¼-20 2B fit, the recommended H-Limit is H5 and on a ¼-20 3B fit, the recommended H-Limit is H3. If drilling a material creates chips that do not break, but rather form ribbons, the workpiece probably is conducive to thread forming. In my shop threads done with dies look much better and you ain't as likely to get cut on any jagged edges! I expect there are places you can go single point that you have a hard time with a die. Each combination of tap size and pitch has a recommended H-Limit for each Class of Fit. ![]()
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